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Truing Seams

The biggest headache with princess lines (besides the collection layout ) is truing up the seam lengths to an accuracy of at least 0.1mm ... the illustration below shows my curve lengths measured to 0.001mm ... that's hours of tweaking for each style, in each cup size, and in the smallest and largest sizes (for grading later). Truing of curves that are created by darts should be done at the center of the curve or as close to it as you can .... demonstrated in the post linked below ... one side is opened or closed at the dart line or design line and rotated until the seam lengths are correct ...

Don't get fooled into thinking that its only the overall seam length you need to measure ... that's incorrect ... it's the length of each curved section that needs to be trued ... in the case of this design we have two curved sections that each need to be trued separately. If you only trued the total length then you risk shear ripples forming along the seam if one individual paired curve length is shorter/longer than the other ... this is pattern mastery .. or dark magic ... or both.

Also in situations like this you need pattern notches ... lots of notches.


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