Men's Swimwear Briefs
Something With A Little More Coverage Than A Speedo!
Kirsty from the Facebook Group said she wanted to know how to make a pattern for men's swimwear briefs that weren't high on the leg, had a good cheek coverage, were darted under the crotch and a relatively high band at the side ... and could this be done on the men's 10% swimwear blocks? Well yes it can be.
Leg lines are really an arbitrary thing that's up to the designer. Besides a few basic rules of thumb I follow, it's really up to you how you do things ... so I'm going to show you how I would do it. The photos below should give you a basic idea of what we're trying to do.
I'm starting with the bottom half of the men's body block in a size 98cm hip/seat. Draw a guide line (red) by squaring all the way across from the crotch line. Now extend each of the side seams (green) to the red guide line. We're doing this because we need to lower the leg line from that on the standard block.
Now the fun part ... we need to divide the block up horizontally. Measure from the waist line down to the crotch guide line and divide it into quarters. At the top quarter, square all the way across ... repeat for the bottom quarter. The top guide line represents what I'd call the highest comfortable waist band height for a male ... it's normally the boxer line. The lower guide line represents the square leg.
Now we want to mark in the widest crotch seam width for a male which usually approximates 1/3rd of the seat width ... you could go a fraction wider if you need to for some reason but it will make the angle into the crotch line too steep so it's not recommended .... anywhere between 25 and 33% is about right depending on style.
On the front panel, draw a guide line (red) from the upper most guide square with the side seam, down to center front, as illustrated. Measure how far below the uppermost guide the new guide (red) intersects the center front (X). On the back panel, measure up half of X above the uppermost guide.
Next we sketch in where we want out front leg line to sit. The designer requested something in a low brief but not square cut so I've arbitrarily decided on the distance X above the lower guide at the side seam ... this is entirely up you as to how square or high you want your leg line to sit. From the height of X at the side seam I have sketched in a leg line to join in with the one on the block ... that join should occur at or above the lower guide line. I've continued all the way to the crotch seam to somewhere half way between the original line and the 33.3% guide for a little extra seat width.
Now put the two blocks together at the side seams. Complete the design of the leg line on the back block to the same crotch seam width as the front block.
Sketch in your waist band line starting at center front, crossing the guide at the side seam and joining up with the half X mark at center back. Men's high waisted briefs are different to women's ... men's briefs sit better with a slightly higher center back waist than the side seams. Make sure your design line is square at center front and center back.
Put the front and back blocks together at the crotch seam to make sure your leg line is smooth.
Remove the unnecessary guidelines.
On the front block we need to create the pouch section .... it's a bit like a reverse center back seam in that we just cut and spread the pattern a little. Split the area between the crotch seam and crotch line in half and split the area between the lowermost guideline (square line) in half as well, as illustrated.
Spread the top cut by 10 degrees and the remaining sections by 5 degrees.
Draw a new guideline (red) from the waistband at center front outward by 5 degrees until its about halfway through the 10 degree spread section.
Re- curve the leg line smoothly. Re-curve the center front pouch section smoothly .... this is now the curved crotch dart and the straight line above it is the new center front.
Remove all the unnecessary guide lines again. Add your seam allowance (I've used 10mm everywhere except the center front and center back folds). Remember to mark you patterns with style/design name, panel name, how many to cut, size, date/version and author name. Mark any other features such as fold positions.